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Cars: 2015

So…I have a 2014 Subaru Crosstrek, and I bought a new phone earlier this year. For the life of me, I can’t figure out how to delete my old phone from the system. They allow you to use the push-button interface to add the phone, then then you need to use voice commands to delete a phone. The problem is, the fucking thing won’t complete the process.

I really wanted to like this car when I bought i, but at each turn it disappoints me. Except for the AWD. The AWD kicks a55.
 
BassAle said:
I'm not looking at EV pickups. The Rivian R1S is a 7 passenger SUV. The R1T is the pickup.

I do have a friend with a Ford Lightening, and I think EV trucks are fine for the typical consumer (someone not hauling heavy loads all the time)
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Given how some large suvs are used, same applies. Use it as a light duty car, no big deal. Use it as a tow vehicle, range and charging problems.

And I am agreeing that if you use the big vehicle as a car, it should work. But if you use it as a car, wouldn’t a car be a better choice?
 
St. Clown said:
So…I have a 2014 Subaru Crosstrek, and I bought a new phone earlier this year. For the life of me, I can’t figure out how to delete my old phone from the system. They allow you to use the push-button interface to add the phone, then then you need to use voice commands to delete a phone. The problem is, the fucking thing won’t complete the process.

I really wanted to like this car when I bought i, but at each turn it disappoints me. Except for the AWD. The AWD kicks a55.
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Try checking the Bluetooth settings and seeing if it’s there. If you’re using an iPhone it might have the same “name” as your old one.
 
Jimjamesak said:
Try checking the Bluetooth settings and seeing if it’s there. If you’re using an iPhone it might have the same “name” as your old one.
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I do have an iPhone, but the car never let me connect it. I’ve since tried to delete old phones from it, including my wife’s, but no success. Their 2014 system just sucks. The tech at the local dealership was bashing it to me when I asked about it.
 
Last night, I stopped to get a beverage. Attempted to start the car again. While the lights were working, the car wouldn't start. Attempted to jumpstart it. Still wouldn't go. The lights are flickering.

I'm hoping it's a very simple repair; I just don't want to see the estimated cost and freak out.
 
Electrical is usually a battery. If it's not a battery, it's usually an alternator.

Neither is cheap. But neither is the end of the world.
 
If it won’t jump my suspicion is alternator, but of course it could be a few other things. I had a truck that behaved the same way back in college. First sign (that I ignored) was the lights dimming a little bit here and there, even when it had been running for a while.

Because it was a ‘95 Chevy, it was incredibly easy to both get the alternator and do it myself. Cripes I miss that thing, so easy to work on. Don’t miss the (lack of) mileage and the ~30 gallon tank, though.
 
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MissThundercat said:
Last night, I stopped to get a beverage. Attempted to start the car again. While the lights were working, the car wouldn't start. Attempted to jumpstart it. Still wouldn't go. The lights are flickering.

I'm hoping it's a very simple repair; I just don't want to see the estimated cost and freak out.
Click to expand...

The lights flicker when you try to start it? Is it turning over or doing nothing? Bad alternator will generally light up an idiot light or show itself as bad on a gauge. Could be a bad connection at battery?
 
My car just flickered like crazy when the alternator went out. Eventually wouldn't turn over at all on the second or third try.
 
If I understand correctly, shocks and struts need to be replaced before the tires. If I do the tires first, they're just going to wear out faster.
 
MissThundercat said:
If I understand correctly, shocks and struts need to be replaced before the tires. If I do the tires first, they're just going to wear out faster.
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Three months late, but yes, that’s correct. The tires will start to show bad tread wear patterns from the suspension.

Completely unrelated, I’m likely on the market for a car to replace my Subaru. I was in an accident today, and I’d say it’s 80/20 in favor of it being ruled a total at this point.
 
So…about a month later and, yes, I completely totaled my Subaru. Of course, all of this happened when my family was about 2 weeks from a trip to Florida (not my choice), and that delayed the payout process because I wasn’t there to provide docs once they made the decision on it being a total loss.

That said, after looking around for what’s out there - vehicles under 60k miles, and under $25K (wanted a small or no loan), I came across a 2016 Nissan Rogue with only 53K in miles and hit the price mark - must’ve been a granny car with how clean the paint and all was.

At any rate, bought it this past Wednesday, and on Thursday the thing stalls out on me. I got the car going again without incident, but a creeping feeling hit. Then on Friday the thing stalled out again, and that check engine light was going. We call the dealership, and they agreed to fix for free and provided a loaner car, too.

These fully loaded Honda Accords are really nice rides. It’s like they glide along the road. My MIL was lending me her 2008 Cadillac CTS, which isn’t impressive, IMO. This Accord could probably keep up with it on the road, and just make the Caddy feel shame when it comes to both comfort and handling.
 
June 23rd, I collided with a fawn that ran out onto a busy country road. Front bumper started to come off and some of the air intake system came off.

On June 30, my muffler fell off. Started to drag and then fell off. Picked it up off of the street and put it in my trunk.

On July 2, I dropped it off at her place, and on July 3, I had it back with the muffler secured, the air intake piece reattached, and the bumper firmly back on.

Cost to me: $0.00.
 
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