Re: Travel Part 3: Destination Unknown
Bulgaria was awesome. Rough itinerary was
Overnight flight Boston -> Amsterdam, then Amsterdam -> Bucharest, Romania.
Arrived in Bucharest Tuesday afternoon and met my friend, we had to wait while he used airport Wifi to do a conference call. Got dinner in Bucharest and then drove south and crossed the Danube/border into the city of Ruse (Pyce in Cyrillic) where my friend is originally from and is staying for a few months while our employer works on sponsoring his greencard (his H2-B is almost expired). We stayed in a short term rental apartment (like Air B&B, but low-tech) near the city center that my friend arranged from one of his friends.
Late start on Wednesday. Met my friend for lunch and then went with one of his friends that is a kayak guide (among other things) to kayak down the Danube. We put our kayaks in at a village downriver from Ruse (we were going to start in the city, but got a late start so we drove to the next village with a good launch spot). We kayaked downriver, stopping at several sandy beaches to swim. The best beach was on an island on the Bulgarian side of the border. Ended at a village that had a restaurant right at the boat launching area. Spent several hours eating/drinking. My son had paddled a tandem kayak with the son of the kayak guide -- they were around the same age so that was fun for him.
Thursday, the kayak guide friend offered to take us on a day trip for 30 Bulgaria Lev (less than $20 US). We went to several "rock monasteries" -- basically monasteries that were built into caves in the side of cliffs. One included 12th century frescos depicting many biblical scenes. We explored a large cave (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orlova_Chuka), and visited the ruins of the medieval town of Cherven (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherven_(fortress)). Our guide dropped us off at a village and we hopped on a train back to Ruse while he drove back to his home in the country (he had stayed with family in the city for the night).
My friend took Friday off from work and we drove towards the mountains, stopping at the town of Veliko Tarnovo to explore Tsarevets Fortress (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsarevets_(fortress)) and have dinner. We continued on to a monastery near the village of Oreshka just north of the Central Balkans National Park. We had rented some rooms at the monastery (they provide basic lodging to travelers -- the rooms consist of to twin beds and a bathroom, and it is very inexpensive).
Saturday we drove to the village of Borima, where the kayaking/tour guide lives on a small farm. My friend is also business partners with him in a small snail-farming operation. We had breakfast (delicious cakes and homemade plum juice) and toured the farm. Later we had a home-cooked lunch and then we all left to visit a hot spring and then go for a hike. The hot spring was an old communist area resort, and has a bunch of abandoned buildings (like a huge old communist-era bathhouse). The only thing that was really still in operation was a swimming pool that is filled with water piped in from the hot springs. We swam for a bit and then continued on to the location of our hike in the Central Balkans National Park. We hiked to the top of a small mountain, passing a hut for hikers about 20 minutes from the summit (if I go back we may to a hut to hut multi-day hike). Then we returned with my friend to the monastery to sleep (after purchasing some food and beer to bring back). My friend had brought a game of Risk, and we played that while drinking beer and eating dried sausages and fresh cheese and tomatoes until 1AM at a table outside at the monastery.
Sunday day we stopped by the farm again, and then started the drive back to Ruse, stopping at another cave and an open air museum (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etar_Architectural-Ethnographic_Complex). We caught the second half of a professional football (soccer) game in Ruse.
Monday we hung out in Ruse and met my friend for dinner. He really wanted me to try horse meat before I left, so he took us somewhere that served "horse meat burgers" -- it wasn't bad. After dinner we took a nap and then got in a cab to drive the 2 hours to the airport in Bucharest for our return flight.