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Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

As Timothy A said, make sure you cross the Big Horn Mountains on the way there and/or back. US Highway 14 cuts west across the Big Horns just north of Sheridan WY. Aside from the views going up and down both sides, once you get at the higher elevations of the Big Horns it's very beautiful high mountain country. Perhaps not as spectacular as Yellowstone or the Grand Tetons, but nevertheless really nice.

And if you go through Cody, check out the Whitney Gallery of Western Art. Remington and Russell are featured, but there are a lot of artists' works there. There are several museums co-located at the same site, including one for Buffalo Bill.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

you can't go wrong with anything in Yellowstone. the paint pots, old Faithful, the historic lodge (be sure to go in even if you aren't staying there - its right next to old Faithful. the mountains. the hiking. the lake. buffalo stopping your car.

Wall Drug is a good place to pick up snowdomes!
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

As Timothy A said, make sure you cross the Big Horn Mountains on the way there and/or back. US Highway 14 cuts west across the Big Horns just north of Sheridan WY. Aside from the views going up and down both sides, once you get at the higher elevations of the Big Horns it's very beautiful high mountain country. Perhaps not as spectacular as Yellowstone or the Grand Tetons, but nevertheless really nice.

The suggested route from Yellowstone to Mt. Rushmore uses Hwy. 14 through Cody and Sheridan...
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

The suggested route from Yellowstone to Mt. Rushmore uses Hwy. 14 through Cody and Sheridan...

Assuming the weather is decent, which it normally is that time of the year, I think you'll really love the drive across the Big Horns. Depending upon your timing crossing them, there are National Forest Campgrounds in the Big Horns also, although they are relatively primitive; no hookups, no showers, and just pit toilets. There may be some private ones with more facilities although I'm not sure about that; it's been many years since I've been there.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

My favorite is the Upper Norris Geyser basin; I could spend a month there and not get bored. Really love the area beyond Old Faithful, because you get to be close to the geysers, and there's always something going on.

If you get a calm clear morning, take advantage of it. Viewing is best in the hour before sunrise, when the steam plumes rise the furthest before dissipating. As the day goes on, it gets less impressive. (It also gets more crowded.) Worth getting up at 5am, and our 9- and 11- year old daughters liked it too.

P.S. also a vote for taking the Beartooth Highway in to the northeast entrance, instead of the East entrance. Simply spectacular, and worth the extra 100 miles.
Funny Norris is pretty low on my list of favorite places in the park. But it does have some interesting parts to it. It is a much older thermal area than the area around old faithful, so therefor not as active but you can kind of get an idea of what different time periods of thermal activity would look like (as compared also to mammoth with is an even Older thermal area, but really quite dead, the thermal activty in mammoth actually orginates from norris).

I sadly never did the beartooth, but I did make it as far out of the park as Cook City, which I LOVE!!!

Well, just made the reservations, and Canyon was only available for three of the days we wanted, so we switched to Madison. Good that it's close to the hydrothermic areas...
The canyon village just reminds of me of a highway rest stop, althought they did a very nice job on the new vistor's center but they took out my favorite video!!!

This one has one of the clips that was in it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNvTHOrTf_Y

Madison is a nice area, I am not sure where the road construction is this year, but last year it looks like they are shifting the road near gibbon falls, which is just north of madison. The traffic wait generally wasnt too long, but they did close the road early last year (mid august) and that can effect how you go about the park.

As Timothy A said, make sure you cross the Big Horn Mountains on the way there and/or back. US Highway 14 cuts west across the Big Horns just north of Sheridan WY. Aside from the views going up and down both sides, once you get at the higher elevations of the Big Horns it's very beautiful high mountain country. Perhaps not as spectacular as Yellowstone or the Grand Tetons, but nevertheless really nice.

And if you go through Cody, check out the Whitney Gallery of Western Art. Remington and Russell are featured, but there are a lot of artists' works there. There are several museums co-located at the same site, including one for Buffalo Bill.

Like I said before I have not seen the beartooths, but the big horns I have been to and they are pretty neat. But the tetons I could just stand at the foot of and stand in awe for weeks.

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you can't go wrong with anything in Yellowstone. the paint pots, old Faithful, the historic lodge (be sure to go in even if you aren't staying there - its right next to old Faithful. the mountains. the hiking. the lake. buffalo stopping your car.

Wall Drug is a good place to pick up snowdomes!
I agree on both!!! I love wall drug, I also love south of the border. But especially Wall Drug because South Dakota is friggen brutal to drive through.

Ok, so I was a tour guide in yellowstone many years ago, I went back last year as a private tour guide for someone's trip and I almost went back to work this season if I didnt score the current job I have.

So I will share some of the battle tested advice that can make your trip to the park a little more enjoyable.

Ok first off, you should know that last year was the busiest year in park history. Camp sites saw activity that havent seen in years, I tried to get into a couple of parking lots (like artist paint pots are usually not busy and it was friggen insane).

But most of the people that visit the park are lemings and quite predicatable.

So keep the following in mind:
The park is not open just 9-5.

You will be amazed at how crazy parking lots are that hour, and how at 5 oclock everyone turns into a pumpkin. I almost suggest getting up early, taking a nap and then going back out for dusk. The animals are not usually active during the hottest part of the day anyways (why cause its hot man!)

If you are doing picnic lunches, which I suggest you do, eat either before noon or after noon. Again everyone has to eat at noon. Eat at 1 and you will have no trouble at all finding a picnic table. Also some of the picnic area are in really nice spots. There is one area that I cant think the name of, but it is just south of Hayden Valley, and there are tables right along the yellowstone river.

You could over course eat in any of the villages, but the food is ok, and you go back insides, and you have to deal with the lines and all that crap. You generally will eat quicker, have a better experience and eat healther if you picnic most of the time. I would get most of your supplies outside of the park, but the hamilton stores (or whatever they are called now) can certainly fill you up.

Take all the dirt roads! I love taking the side roads, there is usually a fraction of the automoblie traffic and all of them were old park roads at one time. You might finds something neat in there too.

Take a tour of the old faithful inn. I say this not just cause I love Ruth Quinn one of the old faithful inn tourguides but it is a really neat building.

I say this cause I used to be a tour guide there, but if you are looking to have someone else do the driving for a day, sign up for a tour. The tour guides strive to have the most up to date correct information about the park, the know a little about everything and if there is a particular topic you want to know more about they can point you in the right direction.

You can see bears anywhere anytime.

Lamar valley is not only beautiful but bountiful when it comes to wildlife. If you dont have a spoting scope often the people that have them would be willing to share if they see something. But of course dont hog it. You could also sign up for a wildlife tour, but the wildlife sightings happen on the tour or on your own. (I often spent alot of time talking about ruppert evert and if I could of made a bear appear on my tour everytime I would have!!)
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Ok other suggestions.

The day you decide to do gesyers (probably when you are staying at madison) go straight to the old faithful vistors center, do not pass go, unless of course grand fountain is going off. The visitors center does predictions for some of the more predictable geyers, so you can take down the times for the day and plan some of your geyser visits around that. Of course see old faithful, and if you have time the geyser area around old faithful is a nice walk, so is fountain paint points, artist paint points. If you have the chance (which it might be too much with younger kids), I have always wanted to do the hike up to look down at grand prismatic spring. Because the fires burnt out that whole area you can get an amazing view of that spring.
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If I had to pick 3 areas (because the kids would proably get geysered out), I would do old faithful area, aritist paint points (spitting mud) and the midway geyser area (with excelsor and grand prismatic, midway name might be wrong). You could also do a shorter of the loop walks at norris, steamboat and a couple of other geyers are pretty steamy and the kids would proably enjoy. But norris is a very open and hot area, so do that early or late in the day (it will also be less croweded).
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Mammoth is cool, the terraces are fun to walk, and if it is a hot day you can take the kids to boiling river. It is north of mammoth on the north entrance road. A spring runs into the gardner river. There is also swimming on firehole canyon drive (which is south of madison). If the dirt road from mammoth to the entrance of the park is open it is a GREAT place to see pronghorn.
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Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

OMG I have never had a post that was too long....

NutZ

the rest of my first post:

The drive east from mammoth is agreat place to see wildlife and possible the most scenic (well it is all amazing) ok so more mountain like. you can follow that road all the way east thru lamar valley to cook city, which is an old mining town (silver if i remember correctly). If you are looking for wildlife usually once you get into the canyon after the valley you can turn around unless you want to go all the way out. It is a bit of a drive and time consuming.

The road west has tower falls, which are actually a pretty neat waterfall but if you see them after the grand canyon of the yellowstone you might be waterfalled out. I would sometimes skip it on my yellowstone in a day tours, but that is because i was usually running late, people were tired and they didnt want to walk anymore. The drive from tower, roosevelt and to canyon is really pretty and have everyone (but the drive) be looking for grizzlies down in the field. The love it there!!!

I used to think canyon junction was pretty lame but last year in the field right outside of canyon junction, on the road that headed over to madison, I saw two wolves playing/ fighting with one other watching in the woods. It was amazing, since you usually see a single wolf and never that close.

Hayden valley is also another excellent place to look for wildlife, with a bison heard there (and the other in lamar valley). The hayden valley heard can sometimes wander over mary mountain and end up more near oldfaithful area too, so you never know.

There is another cool thermal area south of the valley, called mud volcano, the kids would proably think the dragons mouth is neat. Heck I think the dragon's mouth is neat.

The best places to see the lake from I think are sunset point (out the east road) and the boat ramp at grant village.
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Fishing village is a good stop, and is an area full of grizzly (hey lets put a camp sit in the middle of prime griz habitat) which is why that is a hard sided camping area only. The whole east road is a great place to go looking for grizzly.

Actually pretty much top down on the east side of the park from lamar valley all the way to grant village are good places to look for grizzly.

Kepler falls which is on the road between west thumb and old faithful is a quick stop to see a cascade.

Ok so the grand canyon of the yellowstone. There are a TON of places to stop.
I suggest you do artist point last. That is truly my favorite spot, a glorious view and that way everything sort of builds up to it. Uncle Tom's trail isnt that bad, and of any of the ones that go down, I like that one the best.

Ok this is long enough and I am almost to the point where I am going to drag books out to go into further detail so I will stop.

Here is the gallery of the whole trip I took last year:
http://www.karenwingerphotography.c...Adventures-2009/9231428_dzXsz#621721937_3eKnP

Includes some stuff in Utah (golden spike, farmers market, snow bird and a copper mine) and the tetons. Actually didnt take as many photos as I wanted, which was also another reason I wanted to go back to work there this year.

If you have specific questions let me know.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

If you enjoy reptiles, The Reptile Gardens is a lot of fun in Rapid City/Mt. Rushmore area.

http://www.reptilegardens.com/


Very much worth it. That is one thing I remember I liked when I went on a family vacation.

And as for the Sturgis thing, we accidentally went during that week. Isn't bad at all. Most of the people (even the "seedy looking ones") were more than polite and civil, etc etc. Zero worries. And overcrowding wasn't an issue at restaurants and such.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

I forgot about the grand canyon of Yellowstone!! its another amazingly beautiful site.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

Very much worth it. That is one thing I remember I liked when I went on a family vacation.

And as for the Sturgis thing, we accidentally went during that week. Isn't bad at all. Most of the people (even the "seedy looking ones") were more than polite and civil, etc etc. Zero worries. And overcrowding wasn't an issue at restaurants and such.

I can second that. We camped at Mt. Rushmore for a night during the height of rally never had a problem.

We also spent a night in Yellowstone during that trip. There was a big fire going in the park, so we drove in through smoke. I guess the entrance was closed that night/next morning. There was also a very nice ranger/guide at a turn off who explained the forest fire fighting procedures and the fire's impact. Really cool stuff.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

I forgot about the grand canyon of Yellowstone!! its another amazingly beautiful site.

Yeah the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is amazing, with the yellow colored canyon walls, there are some fumorales where steam is still escaping from the canyon walls. It is a GREAT place to find ospery nests (there are usually 2-3 nesting pairs in the canyon. Last year there was one right near the edge on the North Rim (I cant remember which lookout sorry.)

Inspiration point is also a great overlook, it is way back (even further back) than artist point. Along the north rim they have kind of redone the road so you can drive along to each look out, hop out for a short walk and then go to the next one. There is also a nice trail along the north rim. The south rim travel is a little more jagged, but really on the south rim I would just do uncle Tom's and artist point. Those are the coolest parts of the south rim and the north rim is kind of set up better for viewing and traffic flow.

You can not see both falls at the same time.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

Moose - I lived in Billings, MT for a while, and our second office was in Jackson, WY., so I had to "cut" through Yellowstone quite often and I've been to the Black Hills a couple of times as well. Everybody has pretty much covered everything.

The things I will add or agree with are; definately get to Devil's Tower as somebody said. It is very cool and allow for a few hours there as you can walk a trail around the whole thing.

Jackson, WY is a very cool town, but expensive.

Look up Quake Lake north of West Yellowstone. It and the story with it are impressive and IMO interesting.

I assume you will pull a trailer...I can't remember what you said right now. The Big Horns are underrated as mountain, but as Tim A. said, it will suck pulling a trailer, but doable, I wish I had been able to spend more time exploring them. IMO, the Beartooth Pass and NE entrance are overrated, but then I drove the **** thing about 15 times. However the NE and east entrances are the best two, with the East being the better of the two, again in my opinion. Personally, Beartooth is more impressive as in a "Holy Crap this is high", the east to Cody is more beautiful. Since you are headed to Yellowstone first, I'd go in the NE and out the East. Red Lodge is also a neat little town and the least pretentious of the "entrance" towns, although Red Lodge is more the gateway to the Beartooth Pass than an entrance town. Finally that late in August, plan for cool weather, especially in Yellowstone, it'll be good campfire weather.

Also, if you get out of your car and take a picture of the Bison, don't be the dolt that has to see how close he can get before he takes his picture. On my many trips through the Hayden Valley and numerous delays for Bison on the road, I was actively hoping some of the Bison would teach some of the bigger idiots a lesson.
 
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Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

I worked for a summer at Flagg Ranch Resort, which is in the small parkway between Yellowstone and the Tetons. Go to see the Grand Teton- it's worth it- and gives you an alternate way back- you can keep heading down to Laramie, and take the freeway back for a quick return.

Since this appears to be a pretty long vacation, I'll suggest treating your daughter somehow- and IF she likes horses (what little girl doesn't...)- try to take a horse ride in the Tetons. Not sure how expensive they would be, but in terms of giving her something to anticipate and be able to tolerate the motion sickness of sitting in the back seat going over the passes- I think it would be worth it. There are a few places where you can do this- even outside of the park in Jackson Hole.

And I'll second the comment about Jackson- it's borderline touristy....

I've been to many of the national parks in the US, and my favorite is Grand Teton- although I'm biased, as I could see the Grand from my bedroom window in Idaho.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

Where are you driving from Moose?

Took the family on this exact same trip last year. Hit Yellowstone first, followed by the Black Hills. We went in July, just before the Sturgis Rally.

My recollection is that you're a BSU fan. If you're coming from northern Minnesota, I have a suggestion. Head to Yellowstone on what I would refer to as the northern route, through North Dakota and Montana. Here is why.

First, you don't take the same road out and back, which I hate on driving trips.

Second, you'll get a chance to see the Theodore Roosevelt National Park in western North Dakota, also part of the Badlands, and it is beautiful. It would also make a good first night's camping spot.

Third, your route in takes you within an hour's drive the Little Bighorn Battlefield, which is interesting if you've never had a chance to see it.

Finally, I really think the beauty of the northern route into Yellowstone is underappreciated. The drive from Red Lodge Montana, through the Beartooth Pass and Cooke City, Montana is spectacular.

People are correct when they say you will enjoy Hwy 14 and the trip through Wyoming, but you're going to see that anyway on your way to Rapid City.

I echo the suggestion to see Devil's Tower. Again, you will be so close it doesn't make sense to drive by it. I regret not having spent more time in Cody, WY.

Deadwood is touristy, but young kids have fun.

Enjoy your trip. We had a great time last year.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

I echo the suggestion to see Devil's Tower. Again, you will be so close it doesn't make sense to drive by it. I regret not having spent more time in Cody, WY.

Good call on Devil's Tower. Very cool.

And Cody has the Buffalo Bill Historical Center which is probably is the best museum (s) on the American West you ever see, if you are into it.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

Devils Tower is worth a quick stop.
I love Little Big Horn battle site. would go there ever year but the mister thinks I'm a little off.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

First off, thanks to everyone - and a special thanks to Winger. I even got my wife to read this because of the quality of the info here... Second, SJ, you are correct in that we'll be leaving from Bemidji. We are already planning the ND/Montana route there and SD back. I'm not sure Little Bighorn can be worked in, but Devils Tower sounds like a possibility.

Just so everyone knows, we are looking at a week total, with five days at Yellowstone and two at Mt. Rushmore. We've already decided to do the Tetons one day, and have a day set aside for whitewater rafting in Gardiner (with a visit to Mammoth Hot Springs that day too) at Montana Whitewater (we're looking at the "Yellowstone Half Day Paradise"). Anyone rafted, or used this company? That leaves three days for the hydrothermal areas and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. We're planning a stop in Cody on the way back east (and maybe Devils Tower), and I think the plan is to get to Rushmore in time to see it lit-up.

That's what we have as of now - subject to change, of course. We do have our reservations in for both yellowstone and Rushmore, but haven't made them yet for rafting - that will happen this week when I've got some spare time...
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

We were looking at camping at the Canyon campground run by Xanterra. Definatly not looking at backcountry camping. We don't necessarly need electrical hook-up, but it would be nice.

Great suggestions by all here and since you're doing more of the standard family trip as opposed to anything crazy, I think the basics (as awesome as they are in this case) have been covered.

I will add one thing I don't believe has been mentioned. Old Faithful gets all the press and is worth seeing while there, but if you have the time you might want to check out a geyser like Lone Star.

Not quite the bohemoth that Old Faithful is, but it's not small, you (last time I was there) can pretty much walk right up to it and it's a very nice easy hike in and out. There are a few others that are quite impressive but require going off-trail to access, but I'd recommend this one if it fits into the schedule at all.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

I worked for a summer at Flagg Ranch Resort, which is in the small parkway between Yellowstone and the Tetons.

Ever take Grassy Lake Rd. out the back of the Flagg Ranch parking lot (more or less)? There are some awesome camp sites right on water if you go far enough and it always amuses us that complete solitude can be found back there despite it being right between two highly visited national parks.
 
Re: Yellowstone/Mt. Rushmore Advice

Bring mosquito spray. Lots of it. We camped (is staying in an RV camping? :) ) at fishing bridge the second or third week in July and the mosquitoes were as big and mean as buzzards there.
 
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