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Business, Economics, and Taxes: Capitalism. Yay? >=(

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I guess my main point of advice to you would be to try to avoid doing what you just did -- asking a bunch of strangers for advice on investing. There are a lot of smart people on this board, and maybe some smart investors. But my suggestion is that you try to find someone who is a professional who can give you good advice now, and going forward. Like trying to find a good dentist or lawyer or doctor or mechanic, that's not always easy. I would suggest by talking to friends and family for names of people they have used with success.

Second, ask a lot of questions of your professional, when you first hire them, and as you move forward. Make sure you understand what you are investing in, why, and what it costs you.

Third, don't get caught up in the daily, monthly or yearly fluctuations in your accounts. Put as much money away as you can, as early as you can, and keep doing that. Exponential growth will take care of the rest.

I understand that aspect regarding the professionals. I'm not looking to put all my cash into XYZ stock because Kep said it's going to the moon... I was more speaking along the lines of: "What is a 401k?" "What is a Roth IRA?" "What are the different kind of Bonds out there?"

Looking for more an understanding of the basic language used instead of actual tactics. Finances to me are like trying to explain the nuances of a hockey stick blade shape or advanced fore-check strategy to someone who doesn't even know what a puck is. Got to have the basic language down to even begin to comprehend the strategy.
 
Yes right now Tesla owns the market but they won't once Ford, GM, Toyota and others put out more EVs. The majors are still primarily internal combustion lines as of now. When that is no longer the case Tesla's market share will drop considerably especially if the majors are more affordable. Right now Tesla barely has competition, and what competition exists is either way too expensive for the average driver or has mediocre battery stats. Tesla having a major part of the market share of EVs now is about as impressive as Apple dominating the smartphone market back when the first IPhone came out...of course they did there isn't much choice.

Beyond brand loyalty, the problem Tesla is going to have is they don't have the ability to make cars at a rate that will match the big names. GM, Ford, Toyota and others can devote way more resources than Tesla even if they keep their internal combustion lines. Tesla has 4 plants one which is in China. Ford has double that in the US alone with 9. GM has 11. Toyota has 15 in the US and 36 around the world. (according to the very basic research I did) They also have a much stronger logistical network and ability to sell and repair at multiple locations in every major city in the US and around the world. When they decide to put their resources towards EVs they will have a built in advantage...its why they all look stupid for not having done this years ago they (and the United States) would be dominating the market and way ahead of the curve.

Tesla will be like all those apps and companies that are groundbreaking but end up losing steam when the big boys decide to get involved. Unless they are able to build more plants and sell more cars they will lose to basic attrition. Right now Tesla has a real stranglehold on the market and their proprietary stuff puts them way ahead. That won't be the case for very much longer and Musk knows it which is why he is so against BBB. Everything that is done to push the US into the 21st century will hurt Tesla in the long run unless he can ramp up production in a major way.

We can revisit this in 5 years :^)

Tesla's Achilles is its biggest strength now. EV credits the other auto companies buy from them. Once that dries up and he has real completion, he'll be fighting a two front war.
 
Thank you for the insight Kep.

I should have mentioned that I am actually 100% debt free currently. I own my vehicle outright, credit card balances are all paid off each month, and I'm currently renting an apartment, so no mortgage. That is the big reason why I took so long to get started on this as I was in a huge hole with student and medical debt. But I am on solid footing in that respect currently.

It is great you have no bad debt. That is the first great challenge.

Renting gives you flexibility but ordinarily it is a wealth loser. A home will typically be the highest ROI we mere mortals who don't lobby Congress can achieve. But as with all investments you must be careful.

Hovey is wrong about almost everything on this board, but he is right about getting professional wealth management advice. Look for people who have a professional responsibility to give you good advice -- certified financial advisors in states where that legally means something. There are a lot of sharks out there looking to cheat you, and a lot of them are in the financial sector, so do your due diligence and find someone with a fiduciary duty to you. Here is a rundown from of all places, the Hellmouth.
 
401(k)s should be almost exclusively invested in the broad market. S&P500 index. Usually next to nothing in fees and reliable performance. If you want to take the guesswork out even more, consider target funds. A little more expensive, a little more conservative, but it's broadly the best strategy for the most people. Risky **** when you're young, moves more a d more to bond and wealth preservation as you get closer to retirement.

This is a prime example. I only understood 1/2 of those words.
 
Buy three or four Ape NFTs and put the rest towards the funniest or most ironic (your choice) named cryptocurrency you can find. That should set you up just fine.

Then in about a year when you’ve lost everything, start following Kep’s plan.

Everything into LET'S GO BRANDON-coin!
 
I understand that aspect regarding the professionals. I'm not looking to put all my cash into XYZ stock because Kep said it's going to the moon... I was more speaking along the lines of: "What is a 401k?" "What is a Roth IRA?" "What are the different kind of Bonds out there?"

Motley Fool has really declined over the years, going from an extremely solid, responsible source of basic financial advice to just another bunch of clickbait podcasting as-sholes. BUT they brought out some truly great material 2 decades or so ago that was great information about the basics of personal financial nomenclature and practice. I don't know that I would vouch for anything from them after about 2010, but their older books really hit the G spot for "training for smart people who just don't know anything about their money." They are how I learned.
 
This is a prime example. I only understood 1/2 of those words.

If you Google the boglehead investment strategy it lays things out pretty nicely. I’m also a complete novice.

i max out my 401 and I have it in target date fund to take guesswork out.

start a Roth IRA if your income allows- that would be what id prioritize after 401k.

I actually just hired a fiduciary to help me here. I just started a taxable account where I now put some money each month to ETFs- I picked broad ones like ITOT and IXUS- those were good ones for a taxable account.

the bogle head site will help explain this all and give you examples of low fee funds. It doesn’t have to be real complicated to be working well

https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Three-fund_portfolio
 
My god do you realize how much we could take those stupid fucks for? Everything!

Get on this before Dump does it.

Someone already did. The NASCAR driver who is the reason the chant began signed with them after no other sponsor would, then NASCAR axed the deal because they’re trying to get rid of political sponsors.
 
If you Google the boglehead investment strategy it lays things out pretty nicely. I’m also a complete novice.

i max out my 401 and I have it in target date fund to take guesswork out.

start a Roth IRA if your income allows- that would be what id prioritize after 401k.

I actually just hired a fiduciary to help me here. I just started a taxable account where I now put some money each month to ETFs- I picked broad ones like ITOT and IXUS- those were good ones for a taxable account.

the bogle head site will help explain this all and give you examples of low fee funds. It doesn’t have to be real complicated to be working well

https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Three-fund_portfolio

Thank you for this, I think you are my next step. I researched CFAs before the Plague but they were all "pfft you have less than $10M you aren't worth my time please use the riff raff exit good day sir."
 
This is a prime example. I only understood 1/2 of those words.

- Index stock track the overall market, or large groups of stocks, rather than individual stocks. Your chances of big gains go down, but so do your chances of big losses.
- Since your 401k does not tax gains, one strategy is to go for the steady gains there, so that you are getting those tax free. If you did more individual stocks, yes, you might gain more (and thus getting the gains tax-free is nice), but you also might lose more, and you lose the ability to count those losses as capital loses, which you can use to offset other gains. Now maybe you're an great individual stock picker and you can have your gains always way ahead of your losses to the extent that it's better than index funds, but really, if you're having those conversation here, probably not.
 
If you Google the boglehead investment strategy it lays things out pretty nicely. I’m also a complete novice.

i max out my 401 and I have it in target date fund to take guesswork out.

start a Roth IRA if your income allows- that would be what id prioritize after 401k.

I actually just hired a fiduciary to help me here. I just started a taxable account where I now put some money each month to ETFs- I picked broad ones like ITOT and IXUS- those were good ones for a taxable account.

the bogle head site will help explain this all and give you examples of low fee funds. It doesn’t have to be real complicated to be working well

https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Three-fund_portfolio

Bogle is excellent for the vast, vast majority of people. This is very much my strategy.

0. Make sure you have, at a minimum, a 6-month emergency fund in 100% liquid accounts (cash, savings, etc. Accessibility and zero risk are the primary concern here.)*
1. Take free money via company matches into your 401(k) and/or Roth 401(k)**
2. Contribute your annual medical costs to HSA
3. Contribute to Roth IRA***
4. Contribute max to HSA
5. Consider dumping more into your 401(k)****, *****
6. Have a non-tax-advantaged account (standard brokerage, like Fidelity) that invests in broad, inexpensive funds like VTSAX or FZROX.******

* - I'm also looking to convert some/all of my liquid emergency fund to I Bonds. Something I had never heard of until recently. It's kinda complicated, but essentially it is an inflation protected US bond. The catch is you need to hold for 12 months minimum. So it doesn't qualify as emergency funds until after this 12-month window. Anyways, I'll be contributing a certain amount every year until they start to cross the 12-month threshold. After that, I can start to draw down my savings/cash accounts and treat the bonds as the cash emergency fund that isn't earning shi-t for interest.

** - Roth is generally the best bet if you're young and have time to grow, you expect your income to grow, etc. One catch, see ****** below.

*** Though, 3 and 4 could be flip flopped because you don't get phased out of HSAs as income goes up. But, if you're family planning, it might be worth maxing the HSA first.

**** - I think that the fund offerings we have kinda suck relative to Vanguard and Fidelity. So, ymmv. If your 401(k) has very high fund expense rates, you almost need to do the math long term to find out where your best bet is over time. Too complicated for the vast number of people though.

***** - One thing to note, 401(k)s are generally completely off limits to creditors, bankruptcy, lawsuits, etc. IRAs are not completely protected. So, something to think about in terms of risk.

****** - Diversify through funds AND tax liability if you can. The reason you diversify your tax exposure is because we have no idea what the government will do to retirement tax laws between now and 2040-2060. So you don't want to get screwed because you had all your eggs in one tax bucket. A Roth 401(k) is becoming more widely offered. Works just like a Roth IRA but with a few differences. I currently split around 50:50 for Roth vs. Traditional across all of my accounts (401(k), IRAs). A Roth account doesn't tax gains. A traditional account does. French has that backwards above. So with a Roth IRA or 401(k) you pay taxes on that income now and you don't pay later. With a traditional IRA or 401(k), you don't pay any taxes on that money and you pay income taxes on what you take out later. This table is the best I've seen describing the differences.
 
Now maybe you're an great individual stock picker and you can have your gains always way ahead of your losses to the extent that it's better than index funds, but really, if you're having those conversation here, probably not.

Even people paid to do this almost universally suck at it relative to the S&P over time.
 
My god do you realize how much we could take those stupid fucks for? Everything!

Get on this before Dump does it.

I told my buddy we should fly down to Dallas and start selling stuff to the JFK Jr. crowd...we could fleece them for millions before they finally take the Kool Aid Nap.
 
dx, explain the I bonds more. Some basic searching show this:

They’re currently 7.6% for at least the next six months.
While they do have a variable interest rate, the composite has been above 7% for the last 25 years.

They essentially seems like a CD with way better rates.

Edit: Ok, turns out I should have put in more than two minutes of research. The table I looked at wasn’t an archive, but rather currently issued bonds at the current inflation plus their fixed rate. So they definitely have been below 7%.

Still, that’s a heckuva lot better than any savings or high yield savings is offering at the moment.
 
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Bogle is excellent for the vast, vast majority of people. This is very much my strategy.

0. Make sure you have, at a minimum, a 6-month emergency fund in 100% liquid accounts (cash, savings, etc. Accessibility and zero risk are the primary concern here.)*
1. Take free money via company matches into your 401(k) and/or Roth 401(k)**
2. Contribute your annual medical costs to HSA
3. Contribute to Roth IRA***
4. Contribute max to HSA
5. Consider dumping more into your 401(k)****, *****
6. Have a non-tax-advantaged account (standard brokerage, like Fidelity) that invests in broad, inexpensive funds like VTSAX or FZROX.******

* - I'm also looking to convert some/all of my liquid emergency fund to I Bonds. Something I had never heard of until recently. It's kinda complicated, but essentially it is an inflation protected US bond. The catch is you need to hold for 12 months minimum. So it doesn't qualify as emergency funds until after this 12-month window. Anyways, I'll be contributing a certain amount every year until they start to cross the 12-month threshold. After that, I can start to draw down my savings/cash accounts and treat the bonds as the cash emergency fund that isn't earning shi-t for interest.

** - Roth is generally the best bet if you're young and have time to grow, you expect your income to grow, etc. One catch, see ****** below.

*** Though, 3 and 4 could be flip flopped because you don't get phased out of HSAs as income goes up. But, if you're family planning, it might be worth maxing the HSA first.

**** - I think that the fund offerings we have kinda suck relative to Vanguard and Fidelity. So, ymmv. If your 401(k) has very high fund expense rates, you almost need to do the math long term to find out where your best bet is over time. Too complicated for the vast number of people though.

***** - One thing to note, 401(k)s are generally completely off limits to creditors, bankruptcy, lawsuits, etc. IRAs are not completely protected. So, something to think about in terms of risk.

****** - Diversify through funds AND tax liability if you can. The reason you diversify your tax exposure is because we have no idea what the government will do to retirement tax laws between now and 2040-2060. So you don't want to get screwed because you had all your eggs in one tax bucket. A Roth 401(k) is becoming more widely offered. Works just like a Roth IRA but with a few differences. I currently split around 50:50 for Roth vs. Traditional across all of my accounts (401(k), IRAs). A Roth account doesn't tax gains. A traditional account does. French has that backwards above. So with a Roth IRA or 401(k) you pay taxes on that income now and you don't pay later. With a traditional IRA or 401(k), you don't pay any taxes on that money and you pay income taxes on what you take out later. This table is the best I've seen describing the differences.

Agree with this 100%. Bogle is great and the forum is relatively friendly. Whitecoatinvestor is a good site, but doctor oriented which can be intimidating. He got his start at Bogle. He does have some good book suggestions that are not physician specific.
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/best-financial-books-for-doctors/#personal

I started putting money in ibonds this year and will probably do so for the future as it is a good place for a contingency fund after a year, and holds value.
 
dx, explain the I bonds more. Some basic searching show this:

They’re currently 7.6% for at least the next six months.
While they do have a variable interest rate, the composite has been above 7% for the last 25 years.

They essentially seems like a CD with way better rates.

Edit: Ok, turns out I should have put in more than two minutes of research. The table I looked at wasn’t an archive, but rather currently issued bonds at the current inflation plus their fixed rate. So they definitely have been below 7%.

Still, that’s a heckuva lot better than any savings or high yield savings is offering at the moment.

Yeah they are good to look into. If you contribute before the end of April, you will lock in the 7% rate for 6 months. Here is a good walkthrough.

https://www.physicianonfire.com/buy-i-bonds/
 
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