The Home Improvement Thread. Successes and Failures

[dxmnkd316]

Ok, new problem.
I have a hallway light switch that has 1X/3 (don't know if it's 12 or 14) Romex plus ground. Operates normally with what I assume should have just been a simple two-wire cable with ground.
This isn't a three way light circuit as far as I know, HOWEVER, this was a three way switch with all four wires attached. One hot, one traveler hot, and a switched line that only goes hot when the switch is on.

So here's where it gets bizarre and a bit scary. The other end of the hallway has a light switch that I was told used to control an attic circulator. But when I opened up the switch, it too was a three way switch with all four wires landed. But all three wires behind this switch are always hot no matter if I turn that switch on or off, or if I turn the other hallways switch on or off. No matter the configuration.

now, I've come to the conclusion that this is indeed NOT a three way circuit, fine. However, why would you have 12/3 romex run to a hallway light switch? This isn't connected to any other load other than a single light fixture as far as I know.

And why would all three wires in the other switch be hot? That doesn't make a lick of sense. I underhand that neutral isn't necessarily zero electricity, especially if it was a shared neutral somewhere up or downstream. I just don't understand why the red and black would also shot hot using a non-contact sensor.

Any ideas?

[walrus]

Ok, new problem.
I have a hallway light switch that has 1X/3 (don't know if it's 12 or 14) Romex plus ground. Operates normally with what I assume should have just been a simple two-wire cable with ground.
This isn't a three way light circuit as far as I know, HOWEVER, this was a three way switch with all four wires attached. One hot, one traveler hot, and a switched line that only goes hot when the switch is on.

So here's where it gets bizarre and a bit scary. The other end of the hallway has a light switch that I was told used to control an attic circulator. But when I opened up the switch, it too was a three way switch with all four wires landed. But all three wires behind this switch are always hot no matter if I turn that switch on or off, or if I turn the other hallways switch on or off. No matter the configuration.

now, I've come to the conclusion that this is indeed NOT a three way circuit, fine. However, why would you have 12/3 romex run to a hallway light switch? This isn't connected to any other load other than a single light fixture as far as I know.

And why would all three wires in the other switch be hot? That doesn't make a lick of sense. I underhand that neutral isn't necessarily zero electricity, especially if it was a shared neutral somewhere up or downstream. I just don't understand why the red and black would also shot hot using a non-contact sensor.

Any ideas?

yeah, check it with a meter. Non contact testers can make you believe there is power when there isn’t.

[dxmnkd316]

yeah, check it with a meter. Non contact testers can make you believe there is power when there isn’t.

Thanks as always walrus

[dxmnkd316]

Update:

New outlets and switches are starting to go into the kitchen. My god what a difference the Leviton Decoras make. I'm sure 99% of it is just the switch from almond to white, but they look fantastic. I really like the screwless faceplates. I still haven't swapped the disposal/dishwasher circuit out yet, but having the switch for the disposal next to an upgraded outlet makes the difference even more stark. Million dollar upgrade.

Also replaced the GFCI on that first circuit and really like the newer style that self tests regularly and has led indication. It's a couple bucks more but whatever.

I also found an outlet that had the line and load crossed across the outlet (hot line + neutral load on one set of posts and vice versa). Yikes. I'm not entirely sure it was something that would result in a burn the house down situation, but glad I fixed it. Now everything tests correctly. Plus now I know which outlets go to which circuit so I can update the labeling in the panel. I wouldn't have done it this way, but it still makes sense in the end.

My only gripe about all of this is that the new tamper resistant outlets can't be tested with a traditional single prong contact tester. Didn't think of that when I bought it :-/

[Swansong]

Yeah my house had a lot of work done when those tamper resistant outlets were first mandated and... they become adult-proof as much as child-proof. Supposedly the newer ones are much better?

[walrus]

I assume no permit for the work you are doing? Why would you put in tamper proof recepts?

[dxmnkd316]

Yeah my house had a lot of work done when those tamper resistant outlets were first mandated and... they become adult-proof as much as child-proof. Supposedly the newer ones are much better?

Plugging in a normal two or three-prong plug works fine. Little stiff, but that's fine. Unless the little tike has a hammer and nail, he's not getting to the dangerous parts. Plus I believe they're required by code in most locations now. Some are exempt, but I see no reason to not install them.

[dxmnkd316]

I assume no permit for the work you are doing? Why would you put in tamper proof recepts?

Not running any new services, changing grounding, changing non-GFCI to GFCI. Just swapping outlets to update decor. Plus the existing GFCIs are either original or 15-20 years old. Time to replace.

why? Because I'm touching them and code requires TR now. I can't remember if it was 2020 NEC or the prior edition, but all 15-20 A circuits require TR outlets as I understand it. I won't be putting them in the ceiling outlets (garage and laundry) but everywhere else in the house will get them.

Even if they weren't required, the relative increase in peace of mind is worth it.

[anygreen]

Update:

New outlets and switches are starting to go into the kitchen. My god what a difference the Leviton Decoras make. I'm sure 99% of it is just the switch from almond to white, but they look fantastic. I really like the screwless faceplates. I still haven't swapped the disposal/dishwasher circuit out yet, but having the switch for the disposal next to an upgraded outlet makes the difference even more stark. Million dollar upgrade.

Also replaced the GFCI on that first circuit and really like the newer style that self tests regularly and has led indication. It's a couple bucks more but whatever.

I also found an outlet that had the line and load crossed across the outlet (hot line + neutral load on one set of posts and vice versa). Yikes. I'm not entirely sure it was something that would result in a burn the house down situation, but glad I fixed it. Now everything tests correctly. Plus now I know which outlets go to which circuit so I can update the labeling in the panel. I wouldn't have done it this way, but it still makes sense in the end.

My only gripe about all of this is that the new tamper resistant outlets can't be tested with a traditional single prong contact tester. Didn't think of that when I bought it :-/

Well done! When it comes to repairs at home, i honestly prefer to deal with the contractors and don't try even to fix it myself.
When something gets really out of hands, i can always contact American Residential Warranty customer service here and ask them for an advice.
So far we didn't have any huge issues though, only couple of electrical and heating problems.

[dxmnkd316]

Well done!

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[aparch]

Just got back from making my bank account slightly lighter thanks to my goddammed hot water heater.

Thankfully, it was just a bad pressure relief valve (six years old), but the technician also found my expansion tank (three years old) to have premature failure and needed replacing as well.

This tech actually spent some time with me to explain why the tank could have failed, and a few other tips, to hopefully minimize their visits (which seem to only happen in the dead coldest days of January). Also beneficial was this technician was actually familiar with how our house hydro heat furnace works. Which is great because there are only three neighborhoods who have this system in all of Chicagoland, and replacing it with a gas forced air furnace is what all the companies are selling.

[dxmnkd316]

Did you look at any rebates from the feds?

[Kepler]

TIL you can buy an $8k mattress.

Not bed. Mattress.

We did not.

[burd]

TIL you can buy an $8k mattress.

Not bed. Mattress.

We did not.

At that price, I'd lose sleep over it.

[dxmnkd316]

We really like our dreamcloud. An excellent mattress for us as one sleeps hot and the other sleeps cold (until she gets too hot ... :-/). It's also supportive, yet comfortable.

it somehow finds the Goldilocks zone for every attribute except the fact that it's very thick and can't be flipped. The latter of which hasn't been a problem after four years. TBD over 15.